Simple and Sustainable Scandinavian Life in Denmark
Cinnamon rolls and chai lattes at Kislings cafe, Sonderborg, Denmark. Photo by Alison Travis
Picking raspberries in the sun. Baking a cinnamon-spiced cake with apples from the backyard. Sipping tea in candle-lit cafes. Buttering a fresh roll while watching the mist pass over the harbor. You may have heard of hygge - it describes a soothing feeling of coziness, warmth, comfort, and well-being that is central to Danes and has been catching on in other parts of the world. We found ourselves entering Denmark, our gateway into Scandinavia, on the first day of fall. It was the perfect season to immerse ourselves in hygge.
Denmark is a small country on a peninsula that juts into the North Sea. It borders Germany to the south (where we crossed by bus) and Sweden to the northeast. Much of Denmark is made up of islands and there is so much beautiful coastline. The weather in Southern Denmark was crisp and a bit misty in late September, similar to the Pacific Northwest in the US. Located at the 54-degree latitude line, we were nearly as far north as Juneau, Alaska!
Ben walking along the beach in north Als, Denmark. Photo by Alison Travis
Ben and I spent two weeks doing a work exchange at a small bed and breakfast on the island of Als. Our host was a thoughtful and down-to-earth woman. We discussed Danish culture and operating a sustainable inn and garden around the dining table with her.
One cornerstone of the Danish democratic way is cultural associations. These clubs and guilds are run by member volunteers. Anyone can form one, anyone can join or support one, and associations can apply for government grants. Our host teaches yoga through a health-centered association that she started with a friend. We did our best to keep up with a class in Danish! We also visited the workshop of an association that authentically recreated an Iron Age warship excavated nearby. At another association, we listened to local folk music band Himmerland perform in a 300 year-old house. These groups reminded me of the vast number of student clubs you find in college: large or small, encouraging interests mainstream or niche, with enough offerings for everyone to belong.
An old thatched-roof house in Nygard, Nørreskoven. Photo by Alison Travis
Ben overlooking the Sonderborg Strait from the Alsik Hotel view point. Photo by Alison Travis
People in Denmark are known for being friendly and communal. Danes focus on family life and their workplaces are largely egalitarian. They trust their government, which is very organized and efficiently-run. They receive free higher education, socialized healthcare, and subsidized child care. We got a chance to see an impressive local waste/recycle/reuse center. Apparently they are considering a universal basic income, and many companies have switched to a four-day workweek. The contentment and conviviality of hygge seems to be encouraged on a macro level.
We had several days of beautiful autumn sunshine over fields and woods. Photo by Alison Travis
It's important to distinguish that hygge is not a descriptor for cozy inanimate objects - a pair of fuzzy socks is not hygge. A room is not hygge, although you can design a space that inspires it. Hygge is the mood or feeling within the person. It is an active mindset that you experience, notice, or create.
There was something so meditative and satisfying about spending hours just weeding my way down a garden path. In the clean air, I enjoyed the unhurried nature of focusing exactly on the task at hand. There was nowhere else I needed to be and nothing else I needed to do, except reach for the next weed. Refreshing!
Hanging laundry out in the sun and kneading bread became mindful practices - so simple that we’ve been doing them for thousands of years. After our time in Denmark, I learned the best way to prime myself for feeling cozy, comfortable, and content: slow down, be present, and share with others.
Our host took us all around the island. One night we cooked dinner by the Baltic Sea over an open flame. Photo by Alison Travis
Our host was a potter by trade and also taught us a lot about organic farming and permaculture. We ate off of her handmade dishware. Photo by Alison Travis